We decided to do a serious tour of Israel before rejoining the ship there. But we also wanted to make a stop in Jordan to see Petra, one of the 7 Wonders of the World (along with well more than 6 other sites claiming same). We flew into Amman and toured the city before heading on the 3 hour drive to Petra. Aside from the architectural sites like the Temple of Hercules (161 AD), we didn’t find anything of particular interest in the city, though the spectacular hummus shouldn’t be missed!
Petra was another matter. I’d seen photos of the rock formations and the Treasury carved into the stone, but assumed there was not much more to it. In fact, the ancient city (some parts thought to be from 9,000 BC) covered a large area worth exploring as the population once reached 20,000 around 300 BC. Petra’s prominence came from both it’s unique geology and the clever management of the sparse rainwater. A 3/4 mile long narrow gorge to the area made it easy to defend and a system of damns, troughs, and cisterns made the city an oasis in the desert.
But history aside, the gorge, rock formations and massive hand-sculpted buildings and tombs carved into the stone are hard to describe. I was anxious to photograph it all, so we arrived at 6 AM when it opened. While it was great to be there when there were almost no other tourists, I was disappointed to review my photos – capturing its magnificence requires skills beyond mine.
From Petra we headed south to enter Israel. Though Jordan and Israel have settled boundary disputes and have been at peace since 1994, there are only 3 border crossings along their 200+ mile common border. On the way we stopped for a visit to Wadi Rum, an expansive desert with a moonscape of granite and sandstone mountains. Much of the 1917 Arab revolt lead by T.E. Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia) was fought here. It also was the set for the 1962 movie and others such as Valley of the Moon, Transformers, and The Red Planet. It was easy to see why.
I can’t leave this topic without recommending my all-time favorite biography – Lawrence in Arabia by Scott Anderson (note it’s “IN,” not “of”). A fascinating story that provides context for the troubles we see in the Middle East to this day.
And yes, Virginia, there really still are Bedouin who travel by camel and live in the desert!

