After Panama, we headed down the west coast of South America and stopped at Guayaquil, Ecuador. This small country struggled for a decade from a great recession in 1999. In 2007, Rafael Correa, a leftist economist was elected President and aggressively reshaped the country. He pushed back against U.S. influence and befriended Cuba, Venezuela, and China. When Hugo Chavez called George Bush a devil, Correa said that was unfair to the devil. After bullying banks, the IMF and oil companies into restructured contracts, he applied the gains to health, education, subsidies for the poor and needed infrastructure. As a free market capitalist, I hoped he would fail – but I must admit, he’s done a lot of good things for the country. It may not be sustainable, especially with the drop in oil prices, but the results impressed me. Most love him, but with two changes in the constitution to provide for a Putin-like opportunity to be “president for life,” a wariness of his intentions is building.
Mr. Barberan, famous Panama hat maker
We went to an 85 year old store famous for their Panama hats. Why in Ecuador, rather than Panama? Actually, all “Panama hats” are made in Ecuador. Woven straw hats for shade go back 2000 years in Ecuador. Only when Teddy Roosevelt was seen wearing one when visiting the Panama Canal, did they become known as Panama hats. The best ones use a very fine straw weave and can actually be rolled up and put in a narrow box.
From Guayaquil, we flew to the capital of Quito, which was our staging area for a 3 night journey into the Amazon forest. At 9,350 feet above sea level, it is the second highest capital in the world (after La Paz, Bolivia). As you would expect, the surrounding mountains are beautiful. The city itself sits beneath an active volcano and the detailed evacuation plan was a bit disconcerting. Six churches grace the old town center as different Catholic missionary orders seemed to be in competition. The Jesuits and their gold won hands down!
The Amazon Rain Forest
Though the Amazon River doesn’t actually flow in Ecuador, but the Napo is one of its main tributaries in the Amazon basin which is spread over three countries. Home to 600 species of bird, 170 species of mammal and 120 of reptile, the Ecuadorian Amazon Basin is said to have more species than all of North America.
The Anakonda river cruiser
Our trip began with a flight to the village of Coca where we boarded a motor boat to take us the The Anakonda, a “luxury river cruise boat.” It’s amazing what can be done with marketing photos these days. It was better than a tent for sure, and the crew and guides were great, but it’s not quite like our ship!
The Explorers
By now you know our idea of the great outdoors is a cocktail with an parasol on a beach facing turquois water. But we did enjoy the two days of exploring and learning about the amazing and adaptive ecosystem of this area. Our guide Avel, was a bright young native who was given the chance to study in the U.S. But he returned to live with his family and is committed to preserving their way of life. We also visited a community center for the indigenous people and learned a lot about their culture and foods. We also caught and swam with the piranhas (a meat eating fish) and ate some lemon ants. Avel demonstrated how he eats a delicacy for them – a big, fat, live grub. ONE of our group took on the challenge – not me this time! Watch the video below if you dare.
The trip home was a bit more eventful than planned as our two engine motor boat broke down as we were rushing to make our flight out of Coca (not a place you’d want to spend the night). Also in the video. All in all, an enjoyable outing – but not something we’d do again without parasols.
A 10 minute video. Caution advised.
D & D Adventures 
Good one! I’m glad you did not eat that grub. Gross!
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